Florida wind mitigation credits
Florida gives homeowners discounts on the windstorm portion of their premium for specific, verifiable roof construction features. A re-roof is the single moment you can add several of them at once — and if you let the job finish without documenting them, you have paid for the upgrades and left the discount behind.
If your home was built to the 2001 Florida Building Code or a later edition, it automatically qualifies for a minimum 68% discount on the windstorm portion of your premium — because the code already requires the roof covering, deck attachment and roof-to-wall connections that earn the credits. In Miami-Dade and Broward, homes built to the 1994 South Florida Building Code qualify the same way.
Hip roof shape and secondary water resistance can push the discount higher still. If you own a post-2001 Florida home and have never filed a mitigation form, this is the first thing to check.
The features that earn credits
For homes built before the 2001 code, these are assessed individually. Each is something to specify in your contract and document on completion.
Nail size and spacing meeting current code requirements. On a re-roof this is the deck re-nailing line item — the cost you grumble about is also the credit you collect.
A peel-and-stick self-adhering underlayment between covering and deck, so losing shingles in a storm does not mean water inside the house. Specify it by name in the contract.
Rated in three tiers: clips, single wraps or straps, and double straps. Double straps earn the highest credit. Often accessible during a re-roof when they would not be otherwise.
The covering must meet current code standards — asphalt or fibreglass shingles, concrete or clay tile, metal panels, or a reinforced concrete deck. Any legitimate new Florida roof should qualify; the credit depends on documentation.
A hip roof is the most wind-resistant shape and earns the largest shape discount. A re-roof does not change this — it is your roof’s geometry or it is not.
Not a roof feature, but assessed on the same inspection: intermediate or hurricane-rated shutters. Worth knowing about while the inspector is already at your house.
Plenty of sites will tell you a re-roof saves “$500 to $1,200 a year.” Neither the Florida CFO’s consumer guide nor the Office of Insurance Regulation publishes a savings range, and the credit depends on your carrier, your coverage, your build year and which features you can actually document. The state’s own guidance says the amount varies and to ask your insurer.
So any single number you see quoted is invented. Get the inspection, send the form to your agent, and ask them to quote the delta on your actual policy. That is the only figure that means anything.
Getting the inspection right
Florida’s Office of Insurance Regulation approved a new Uniform Mitigation Verification Inspection Form that must be used for all inspections performed on or after 1 April 2026. An inspection on the old form is wasted money. Ask before they start.
The form must be completed by a licensed home inspector with the required hurricane mitigation training and a CILB-approved proficiency exam, a licensed general, building or residential contractor, a licensed engineer or architect, or a certified building code inspector. Not just anyone with a ladder.
The point is to document the features your new roof has. Inspecting the old roof captures the old credits. Schedule it once the final inspection has passed and the new deck attachment and underlayment are in place.
A completed form stays valid for five years provided no material changes are made to the structure. Keep a copy, and send it to any new carrier when you shop your policy, because credits do not follow you automatically.
Get your actual roof measured and priced first, so you know what the job costs before you start negotiating what goes into it.
Related Florida guides
The law is the same across the state. Pricing is not — that is what the city pages are for.